‘Why aren’t you going to paint your hull?’ ‘If you’re going to leave it bare, you should at least shine it up’. ‘You’re in for a ton of corrosion if you leave your hull bare’.
These are just a sample of the questions and comments we’ve been getting through our last few videos, so we thought it was time to publicly address the issue. Our hull is staying bare aluminum, and we *want* it that way. Keep reading as to our reasons why, and to answer all the questions you may have about why there is no longer paint on the side of our boat.
In this episode we also dig our mainsail out of storage to see how it fits on the boat, and Matt goes over our plans for how we’re going to lay out our deck hardware. With all the changes we’ve made to Elements, the previous set-up is no longer going to work for us.
Cheers from the WATER!!
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Thank you!,
Matt & Jessica
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Music:
0:00Â – Gitty Cat – Andrew Applepie
00:59Â – Welcome – CyberSDF
09:34Â – Gold – Artificial Music
Camera equipment used:
– Sony NEX 5T -Â http://amzn.to/2glc9zG
– Panasonic HDC -Â http://amzn.to/2lPlf9O
– Apple iPhone 5 -Â http://amzn.to/2tsmRLp
Editing software:
Windows Movie Maker & Adobe Premier
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The beauty of a metal boat, all attachments can be welded on deck, ect. I was watching a survey on a 47 wooden Trumpy motor yacht and I beheld a magnificent 85 feet aluminum racing sailing cutter on the side of the Playboy boat yard up the Ft. Lauderdale river. As I got closer the tragedy loomed bigger. Below the waterline holes were eaten through all over the bottom, galvanic corrosion, and I said to myself, How would I solve this problem? Meanwhile, my surveyor is tapping away on the boat sides of the Trumpy. Crack crack crack, then thud=some rot. about 2-3&1/2 inches above the waterline, maybe 5 spots. We dug them out, 1/2 inch deep and filled with epoxy fill. Here was the secret of the wooden boat downside, the ongoing rot of the below waterline structure. In old wooden sailing ships, the crew after a rain would pull salt water up in buckets to rinse off the fresh water rain and flood the decks, spars and booms with salt water to kill the rot mold. This Trumpy rot was formed when the right amount of moisture was sucked up a few inches, leaving the salt behind and in warm Florida temperatures began rotting. At many more places inside the boat, ribs and floors,ect, was this rot phenomenia taking place, where the wood was not saturated, but just right. The fix, I laid up 8 layers up to the spray rail [8 ” above waterline] alternating of chopped strand mat and roving, 1/4 inch thick, galvanized stapples at the second layer and stainless screws at the 4th layer into the ribs and floors. Results dry bilge,with rock salt added,in case of a topside or shower leak, AC condensate leak ect to create salt water if there’s a leak. Doors open and close in the slings. Grease was pumped via zerks into the shaft alleys, so no water leaks were needed for packing glands. Wood, prevent a constant moisture area or fully saturate with salt water. Above the splash rails, the hull above that can take a good wave splash, but not enough moisture is held there long enough for rot to start. The above aluminum yacht needs these bottom plates replaced welded in,but a thinner glass middle layup pop riveted layer could isolate the saltwater electrolite out of the marina electrolite problem, making boats composite, is done in wood, epoxy, and fiberglass very sucessfully. Glass over metal has been done also very successfully. I was born and raised in southeast Mich, and have owned a 33, 39 and a 55 ft Tayana sailboat, my biggest life mistake selling her.