December 31st, 2009- Â Closed on â€œSerendipityâ€ 1989 Sabre Targa
December 16th, 2009- Â Survey of â€œSerendipityâ€ was completed by Steve Dake
The entire boat was found to be strong and â€œship shapeâ€.
January 1st- May 31st 2010.Â Â Engine hours 788
A) Bottom paint
1) Current paint is Interlux VC17M over Interlux grey barrier coat 2000
2) Lightly sanded bottom with 120 grit paper to rough-up surface
3) Cleaned sanding dust with rubbing alcohol.
4) Applied two coats of original color VC17M (used 2 quarts).
B) Hull and Topside
1) Current Sabre White gel coat was lightly oxidized
2) Used 3m Marine compound to remove oxidation with Mikita 744 polisherÂ and two Pinnacle grey foam pads (aggressive)
3) 3m Finesse-it II was used for second stage in polishing program with one mild aggression yellow Pinnacle pad.
4) Two coats of Collinte Fleet Wax were applied by hand to all gel coat surfaces, allowed to haze and then removed with microfiber cloths
C) Stainless Steel
1) Stainless had lost a bit of its luster, but no rust.
2) Used a paste form of Spotless Stainless cleaner and allowed to sit on stainless for 30 minutes.
3) Washed remaining cleaner off.
4) Two coats of Collinte Fleet wax was applied to stainless
D) Teak Exterior Wood Trim
1) Sand/scrape old finish off teak gunwales, hatch boards, cockpit table and grab rails.
2) Used West Marineâ€™s single part teak cleaner (worked, but would use two part next time)
3) Taped all surrounding surfaces
4) Applied two coats of Sikken Cetol Natural Teak sanding between applications with 120 grit paper.
5) Two coats of Sikken Cetol gloss were then applied with the same sanding between coats.
E) Dinghy Davits
1) Davits were purchased from Garhauer Marine at the Strictly Sail showing in Chicago ($930)
2) Davits were aligned and leveled off the stern pushpit.
3) Eight Â¼â€ mounting holes were drilled in the transom through solid fiberglass.
4) Each bolt was bedded with 1â€ butyl tape and backed with 1 Â½â€ washers
5) Two 5 Â½â€™ stainless steel horizontal support poles were added to prevent swaying.
6) Top section of davits was tied into the stern pushpit.
F) Chain plates and Stanchions.
1) Chain plates were inspected
2) Old silicone bedding removed and cleaned with acetone.
3) Chain plates were bedded with 3M 4200uv sealant (old silicone would not allow any other less aggressive sealant to work).
4) Port and starboard stanchions from pulpit to lifeline opening
5) Tested for core damage, but found that Sabre used solid fiberglass in this area.Â (or the POE filled these with epoxy)
6) Bedded the hardware with butyl tape and new 316 stainless flat head bolts.
7) Replaced deck drain on port side with new Forespare unit
G) Coast Guard Registered Name
1) Removed old vinyl from transom with heat gun
2) Rubbed out shadow left by old name with 3M compound
3) Bought new vinyl and installed
4) Bought replacement for â€œMuskegon MIâ€ due to ordering wrong sizeÂ letters first time
1) Bimini and Dodger were cleaned with 303 Aerospace fabric cleaner
2) Both were protected with two coats of 303 Aerospace protectant
1) Pulled all 5 winches apart to inspect.
2)Â Cleaned with brake cleaner,Â soaked in kerosene, and usedÂ lots of paper towels
3) GreasedÂ with Lewmar winch grease
4)Â Lubed pawls with oil
A) Engine (788 hours on Westerbeke)
1) Alternator was pulled and inspected.
2) New serpentine belt was installed (two other spares on board)
3) Graco strainer was pulled and inspected. Â Replaced plastic drain and washer (cracked)
4) Impeller replaced (used one kept as spare along with two new and two old impellers). Â Bought 5 new
seals for replacing on inspection.
5) Oil changed with Shell Rotella T oil and new filter (two other filters on board).
6) Transmission fluid replaced.
7) Coolant replaced with BMW M sport coolant (best I know of) with anti corrosion protection. Â Â 50/50 mix
8 ) Racor 500fg water separator drained and filter replaced (2 spares onboard).
9) Checked zinc (two spares on board, but this one was prefect)
10) Pulled ends from heat exchanger and inspected. Â ItÂ wasÂ clean.
11) Inspected hoses. Â Will need to replace next year.
1) Replaced stuffing box packing with GORE GFO dripless packing Â¼â€
2) Greased PYI Max-prop with marine grease until came out joints (zerk in nav Â station #1 draw).
3) Inspected zinc on Max-prop and shaft. Â Both in very good shape.
4) Inspected cutlass bearing. Â Needs replacing winter of 10-11.
1)Inspected packing gland on rudder shaft. Â Will need grease more grease in fitting for 2011.
2) Cleaned steering quadrant and checked tension on cables (greased cables along with checking for burrs).
3) Pulled compass
4) Greased steering chain and inspected Edson brake (spare pads onÂ board).
1) Cleaned, lubed and lap fitted all bronze Spartan seacocks.
2) Replaced missing set screw on Jabsco fresh water pump
3) Cleaned and replaced Jabsco strainers
4) Replaced water filter under forward port settee
5) Added Blue Sea VSM422 holding tank monitor
1) Bought 2 Kyocera KD135SK-UPU (with junction box) solar panels
2) Mounted one on horizontal support tubes on davits (2nd is in storage).
3) Solar on davit tilts to get best angle to sun. Â Used Taco jaw slides to allow the
tilt and hold position.
4) Ran cables 12/2 AWG Tinned Duplex wire through Blue Sea grommet,Â into the
aft lazarette, starboard lazarette, head and finally into the navigation station.
5) Installed BlueSky 2512ix MPPT solar control in lower navigation panel.
6) Wired solar controller with 2 AWG tinned cable to positive battery bank.
7) Ground cable is 2 AWG ran to negative bus bar after Blue Sea 250amp shunt.Â This allows us to monitor solar output.
1) Replaced forward cabin bulkhead 25watt bulbs with Imtra LED tower bulbs. Required Cole Hersee lamp socket (one bulb failed inÂ Jan of 2011)
2) Galley bulb 10 watt was replaced with Sensibulb LED
3) Head was replaced with Imtra matrix LED
4) Anchor light was replaced with Hella 360 single LED 8â€ light
1) Old 8 AWG alternator wire was replaced with tinned 2AWG and moved to be directly connected to house battery bank (prevents accidentally shorting out diode if switched off)
2) Ground cable was replaced by tinned 2/0AWG cable ran to new 250Â amp busbar mounted behind electrical panel.
3) 2/0 AWG tinned cables were also used to connect batteries, busbars and battery switch.
4) Xantrex XM1000 Pro series inverter was installed under navigation station and connected with 1/0 AWG tinned cables to appropriate busbars. Â A/C panel wire was corrected in that if the inverter is on, the A/C outlets throughout the boat are powered.
5) Blue Sea automatic charge relay was installed between the two batteryÂ bank points on the battery switch. Â This allows both batteries to be charged regardless of whether the power comes from solar or alternator.
6) Blue Sea Vessel System Monitor Model VSM422 was installed to monitor d/c voltage for both banks, state of charge for house, A/C voltage, battery temp, bilge pump cycles and holding tank capacity.
7) All wire, lugs, and ring terminals were tinned copper. Â I also used adhesive lined terminals and shrink tube on all connections. Â Wires “will be”Â supported every 12â€ and chafe protections was added whereever aÂ bulkhead was passed (not yet completed).
1) All teak was cleaned with a light water bleach solution to remove any staining.
2) Two coats of Amazon Teak Oil was rubbed on all surfaces and thenÂ polished off with a clean terry cloth rag.
3) Companion way was sanded and then oiled due to darkeningÂ (caramelizing) of previous oil.
1) All surfaces were cleaned with water/bleach mixture and then rinsed
2) Stains were removed with Soft Scrub with bleach
3) Head was cleaned with a stronger bleach mixture
Â C) Cabin Sole
1) Sole was sanded with 120-240 grit paper until smooth.
2) Water-downed West Marine Teak clean was used to brighten teak
3) A single part polyurethane (gym floor coating) was used in 5 coats sanding with 120 grit between coat.
D) Mast Step
1) Cast Aluminum step was pulled and inspected.Â Â The aluminum step had been replaced from Sabre’s originalÂ unit to prevent mast step issuesÂ and allow better draining.
2) The sole (teak surround) around the step was sanded and epoxied to prevent further rot
3) The drain hole was tapped to except a 5/16â€ drain hose that leads into the bilge.
4) Mast step support was inspected (solid fiberglass pan and nothing to worry about)
June 2010-Â 791 hours on engine
1) Added an Interstate battery to the Starboard side storage next to the water heater.Â There was a molded surface that almost looks like Sabre meant there to be a battery mounted in this area.Â 1/0 battery wires were ran to the battery switch at the navigation station as a second bank.Â The boat will still be started on the house bank, but this will be a back-up in case of house bank failure.
2) Mast was stepped by Eldean’s Marina and rigging inspected.Â Everything passed just fine.
3) Cleaned deck with Starbrite deck and non-skid cleaner
4) Washed all flat deckÂ surfaces along with the hull using Nautical Ease Boat Soap
5) Applied Collinte Fleet wax to the cockpit’s combing,Â along the cabin top, and the boom/mast where I could reach.
6) Mclube’s Sailkote was applied to all blocks, furling gear, and any other moving part.
7) Mast track was cleaned and lubed with a mast cleaning kit
8 ) Installed Razor 19″ LED t.v to port side bulkhead in the salon.Â Used a TV bracket purchased from eBay and mounted where the old magazine rack was.Â This is not going to beÂ permanently wired.Â We will plug into a 110v outlet when it’s to be used.
9) Installed outboard motor bracket on stern pushpit.
July 2010- 795 hours on engine
1) Fuel filter gauge added to top of Racor 500.Â This will allow me to see if the fuel filter is clogging before it becomes an issue.
2) Cleaned deck with Starbrite non-skid cleaner
3) Polished portlights with 3m Finesse-It II, then Maguire’s plastic polish, and finished with Collinte Fleetwax.
August 2010- 803 hours on engine
1) Mounted windlass to top of anchor locker (see right tab for more info and photos of install)
2) Added Manson Supreme 35lb anchor to the bow with aÂ Crosby chain shackle.
3) 90′ of ACCO 5/16″ chainÂ was back spliced toÂ the 5/8″ 200′ rode currently in the anchor locker.
4) Cleaned the deck twice this month with non-skid cleanerÂ (bird droppings were bad!)
5) Another coat of wax to the portlights
September 2010- 810 hours on engine
1) Cleaned deck with Starbrite non-skid cleaner (need to buy in volume!)
2) Waxed sides of cabin top and the cockpit with two more coats of Collinite
October 2010- 815 hours on engine (winter storage)
1) Hull cleaned with Mary Kate’s On-Off hull cleaner to remove waterline stains
2) Hull washed with Boat Soap and waxed with Collinte
3) Cover installed using 2×4 supported on the mast winch running to the bow.
4) Sails inspected by Bluffton Bay Sails (local North Sails loft).Â Added new leach line to the genoa.Â Everything else great.
5) Drained and added bypass to water heater.Â Flushed hot and cold water lines with antifreeze.
6) Warmed engine, changed the oil and filter with Shell Rotella.
7) Pulled the impeller, lubed the pump and reinstalled the cover without impeller.
8 ) Took bimini, dodger and all cushions home.
November 2010- 815 hours on engine
1) Pulled prop shaft out of boat and brought home to polish and confirm that it is straight and true (Sabre’s offset drive shaft made this easy work).
2) Found and removed set screws in strut for cutlass.Â UsedÂ my sawzall to cut out old bearing
3) Cleaned the drive shaft strut and pressed inÂ new Buck Algonquin Bronze 1″ cutlass bearing using a 10″ long threaded nuts, socket and a few nuts.
4) Oiled teak with lemon oil to help prevent mildew.
December 2010- 815 hours on engine
1) Pulled Spartan Seacocks to regrease.Â Still looked great from last years lapping.
2) Removed seahood to gain access to the starboard rear dorade vent.Â Had leak dripping from this summer that need to be corrected.
3) Used 3m 4000uv for sealing dorade tube and recaulking spray hood.
4) Started reglassing the dodger using Crystal Clear 30mil clear vinyl and Pacific Blue V-92 thread.Â Also replaced zipper and restiched a few areas.
5) Removed salon folding table to cut down 5.5″.Â It was too big to easily slide past either direction (I wear a 30″ waist pant and I couldn’t fit)
January 2011- 815 hours on the engine
1) Cut down folding table adding three cup stainless cup holder
2) Installed new faucet in the galley (very shinny and large”)
3) Replaced Whale foot pump faucet with new stainless one (that doesn’t leak)
4) Started CNG to propane conversion (see right tab for more information and photos)
February 2011- 815 hours on engine
1) Installed new mid-deck sliding cleats from Garhauer.Â The full length 9″ ones would not fit… had to have 6″ ones made.
2) Cleaned the prop, greased the Max-prop and installed the Shaft Razor
3) Cleaned the engine bay by where the prop shaft exits for paint in spring.
March 2011- 815 engine hours
1) Used extra halyards to support backstay and removed the chainplate to fix a leak.
2) Cut out rear backstayÂ bulkhead with Dremel multi-max (best tool ever!) Water had leaked around the bulkhead and may eventually rot.
3) Ground back fiberglass 12″ in all directions for new bulkhead and glass once it gets warmer.
4) Rigging inspection by Torresen Marine.Â Standing in great shape, but running needs a few pieces replaced.
5) Installed Ubiquiti Bullet 2HP amplifierÂ on stern pushpit for Wifi.Â Used 8dbi antenna.
6) Added Kiddie XTR-8 Carbon monoxide and smoke detector to port settee area.
7) MTI 40-442 LP gas detector added and wired into the circuit for the propane solenoid.
8 ) Ran new Propane hose to LPG locker
April 2011- 815 hours on engine
1) Traced and cutout new backstay bulkhead out of 1/2″ marine plywood
2) Laminated two layers of plywood together with epoxy to create 1″ bulkhead
3) Used thinned epoxy to coat bulkhead edges.Â The rest of this will be protected when new fiberglass is applied.
4) Installed Garhauer adjustable genoa car leads
5) Spliced all new running rigging with Cajun Ropes double braid.Â Mainsheet, main halyard, traveler, boom vang and outhaul were replaced.
May 2010- 815 engine hours
1) When grinding down the bulkheads glass, I left two 1″ tabs to allow placing and centering of new bulkhead in the factory position.
2) Adhered the bulkhead to these tabs with a mix of epoxy and Cabosil, radiusing the corners to allow better fiberglass strength.
3) Used 17ozÂ 6″ 1708 biaxial tape (with 3/4 oz mat) for the first two layers of the bulkhead.
3) The plywood was soaked with thinned epoxy and then four layers of 1708 cloth were layered on the bulkhead tapering out 12″ on the hull in all directions.Â The build-up of cloth and tape was far greater than from Sabre.
4) Drilled holes for the chainplate in the bulkhead. These were potted with epoxy to completely seal this area.
5) Reinstalled chainplate using butyl tape as sealant.
6) Painted the entire rear lazarette and bulkhead with Interlux Bilge Coat white.
7) Painted engine bay with Interlux Bilge Coat white.
8 ) New 1 1/2″Â Shield’s Engine hose was used to replace cockpit drain hose.
9) Seacock for cockpit drain was greased and serviced.
10) VC17m was applied to the bottom (2 quarts used to keep it thin)
11) New Blue Sky 3024il was installed to replace the old 2512 unit (bought third solar panel and the 2512 wouldn’t support the amps produced).
12) New impeller installed and greased.
13) Water heater bypass removed and all of the water system was flushed of antifreeze.
14) Hull polished with 3m Finesse-it II and waxed with two coats of Collinte Fleetwax.
15) Teak was touched-up with Sikken’s Cetol clear
16) New Rule 2000 bilge pump was installed to replace old 1500.
17) Standard Horizon GX2100 with AIS installed
I currently own a Sabre 28 MK II and absolutely love Sabre sailboats for their beauty and quality. I have been shopping for a Sabre 34 with a centerboard (4″ draft) for about 6 months with no luck. Twice I was beat out by another buyer,and I am getting frustrated. I think I found a Sabre 34 Targa for sale. The 4’6″ draft is more than I really want due to the shallow marinas on Long Islands south shore, but I was thinking you may be able to tell me some of the things about the Targa that may convince me to go for one.
I was wondering how you support your cruising lifestyle. Do you have massive savings or do you work while on the boat?
Thomas, we spend three years saving very hard before our departure and then sold all of our belongings to add to that savings. We have not had jobs while traveling nor are we taking in any money through other outlets.
do you have an estimated goal to launch the new boat? (didn’t realize Serndipity was still for sale also)
My wife & I really enjoyed your adventures….
Kevin, we’re hoping to launch the new boat just after the new year…but but projects always take 2-3 times longer than expected, so we’ll see. 🙂
How did you get at the cockpit hoses to change them?
I have 83 s34 and its time. Couple guys looked the job and never came back so im going in… 🙁
Hi am from India. Really enjoy reading your travel journal. Do you’ll have any plans to reach the India at some point ?.
Have a safe journey..
With best regards,
Thanks for the wonderful videos. I have been especially interested in your hard dodger with the addition of forward and side curtains. My question is where did you purchase the hard top? Or did you construct it yourselves? My wife and I are seriously considering replacing our current current soft dodger with something similar to what you have. Thanks and God bless.
Ed & Allyson Montague
S/V Liâ€™i Honu
We actually made the dodger ourselves with a foam core that was fiberglassed and epoxied. If you visit our YouTube channel you can see how it was built in Episode 8. 🙂 Cheers!
We probably won’t reach India in Elements as we purchased her for high latitude sailing, but who knows what the future holds with a different boat. 🙂